There Are No Escalators at the Great Wall; But There Are Cable Cars and Slide-way

After pondering the several different sections of the Great Wall that are accessible from Beijing, we decided on the Mutianyu portion.  From Dongzhimen Subway station we walked to the Dongzhimen Bus Terminal that is right outside of the station exit and took bus 916 for 11RMB ($1.62) to Huairo to transfer to a minibus/car for 25RMB ($3.67) that took us to the wall.  The whole ordeal seemed a little sketchy at first, but it all worked out as planned and is probably the cheapest way to get to this section in about to hours each way.  Our hostel offered tours for 190RMB ($27.91), but it seemed like we would have less time at the wall and more time at some shopping center where the tour company gets a commission.  We repeated the journey in reverse to get back to the hostel, though we had to pay 30RMB ($4.41) per person because the car service knew it was late and we just wanted to get to the bus.  The cost for admission to the wall was steep at 45RMB ($6.61), with the added bonus of the ticket becoming a postcard with postage after it was checked; so we will see if it gets delivered.  

The benefit of this section of the wall is that it was restored fairly accurately, has 23 towers, and offers a beautiful, mountainous environment around it.  If people are pressed for time they can take a cable car to and from the parking lot and wall, but that seems to be too lazy.  Renee and I spent over five hours there and we were pooped from all the climbing.  Just to get to the wall from the parking lot was a three kilometer uphill hike and then the wall itself climbs up and down the surrounding hills.  The steepest hike is between tower 22 and 23 with 455 steps to the end of the tourist section where you then have to turn around.  

There are a few vendors on the wall selling water, snacks, and beer; they were not too annoying and even a god-send depending  on how hard you tackled the climb.  The real treat is taking the toboggan, "slideway," down from tower 6.  It was pricey at 50RMB ($7.35), but our legs thanked us for the reprieve.  You can get going pretty fast if there aren't any pokey people in front of you.  

The wall seemed a little bit of a let down in terms of what we expected, but I guess we didn't know what to expect as it looks like pictures we had already seen.  I'd say it was worth it and we would probably try a different portion to see if it could inspire any awe in us.  One option for the truly dedicated is a 7km hike between two portions of the wall that are not as restored and less touristy; next time!  

Ah, while I don't like paying for pure;ly touristy stuff, I did get a "I climbed the Great Wall" shirt.  The trick that the hawkers play is to say it cost a dollar, and then when you are looking they move the decimal point over and hope you don't know the conversion.  A dollar is 6.7RMB, but the woman said the shirt was 65RMB.  I called her on her bluff and she tried to say it was a mistake, but that 7RMB would be too cheap.  After some back-and-forth, and threatening to walk away, I got the shirt for 12RMB ($1.76).  Yeah, it was cheap; but it was made in China, so I'm sure she still made a profit.  

Great Wall of Taste and Value!

We have discovered a new love.  I'm thinking of going steady with it, and Renee isn't jealous; she may even join in.  I'm not talking about a human, but rather a dumpling. . . We have patronized to this shop three out of three days we have been in Beijing and will probably return in the morning.  The owner/dumpling maker now recognizes us and laughs.  The menu is huge, around 20 different varieties and we have only just skimmed the surface.  He only can say "Herro" and I motion for a serving by holding up my finger.  So far eight dumplings cost 4 rmb ($0.60) and I'd say that is a deal.

Today we ventured to a fried chicken stand to accompany our dumplings, and we were not disappointed.  A piece fried drumstick cost 2.5 rmb ($0.38) and is super crispy with the added curry/other spices putting the Colonel to shame.  Over all our stomaches and wallet (16 dumplings and 2 drumsticks for $1.92) agree, this is the greatest food (street or restaurant) we have had.  We offer our sincere apologies to the Peking Duck that previously held the much-coveted title.

Mao Morbid

(pictures will come when I'm not stuck behind China's censors)
Today we went to visit Mao and bring the number of dead communist
leaders that Chris has visited to two out of three. It is free to get
into the Mao memorial that is located at the south end of Tiananmen
square, but no bags or cameras are allowed inside, so you can check
those for 5rmb ($0.73) at a luggage check to the right of the national
museum from the square. We unexpectedly got help from a local and we
were gifted with the ability to tip him 30rmb ($4.41) for his
services; he asked for 150rmb ($22) while posing as a museum worker.
After being corralled though barricades intended for far more people
we went through a security checkpoint that emptied us into a foyer
that included a giant sitting statue of Mao and single flowers left by
mourners. After that the line is split into two that that we could
quickly proceed on either side of the clear coffin that eerily
illuminated his face. Armed guards and attendants kept the line moving
so everyone got a quick glimpse before the memorial closes at noon.
The sight is odd but nothing new after seeing Ho Chi Minh and it is
good that it is free; it could be a waxed sculpture for all we know.
We wondered around a replica old-style neighborhood that is just south
of the square, and clearly recreated for the 2008 olympics. The area
was mostly retail and chain stores, a very interesting looking
Starbucks is there, but more authentic restaurants and souvenir shops
are located behind the buildings accessible through alleys. We grabbed
way too much food, a beef and noodle soup and red-bean spring rolls,
for 66rmb ($9.69) with cola.
We got lost looking for the Summer Palace and decided to go the the
National Stadium, "bird's nest" instead. Luckily a single subway ride
anywhere is 2rmb ($0.30) and a single bus trip is 1rmb ($0.15). The
station for the Olympic venue is called, easily enough, Olympic Sports
Center and it spits you out with the neat in view. It seemed like any
other stadium I've been to and I would have rather seen an event there
but hey, we saw it in person.

Temple of Heaven: Heavenly?

The Temple of Heaven park was pretty nice and only costs 15RMB ($2.21) to enter; the through pass is recommended, 35RMB ($5.16), as it gets you into the sights within the park that would cost 20RMB ($2.95) each otherwise.  The park is fairly large and a ton of locals seem to just hangout there and play card games while smoking.  The sight carry a meaning that is lost on someone who isn't interested in Chinese history.  The architecture was nice and I'd say it was worth it to escape to an oasis within the city.  An added benefit is that the (in)famous pearl market is located just to the exit A at the Tian Tan Dongmen subway station that also serves the park.  Renee got pearls and I got to haggle, so it was a win-win for both of us.

I also tried the popsicles that seemed to be very popular with the locals; 3RMB ($0.44).  What flavor do you think the unbecoming white, frozen treat would be?  Plain? Mystery? Coconut?  Dim sum? Rice? Nope. BANANA! Yes, the yellow fruit gets a white makeover for the sun-scorched set.  I know bananas are yellow on the inside, but that isn't the color I usually associate with them.  Oh well, they are popular and cheap. So, who is really going to complain?